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Saturday, 27 August 2011

Women's Fur Coats

By Sarah Smith


From haute couture to the high street, everybody's getting in on the fur revival this winter. A strong direction was cast in the use of fur for upcoming fashions, and ready-to-wear is especially reaping the rewards of the inherently warm must-have of the season.

Classic designs were given luxury make-overs when collars, cuffs and trims were adorned with a variety of furs, faux or real, in the autumn/winter collections. Colours were accentuated, contours were curvaceous and glamour came bouncing back to the catwalk.

The season darling of the military trend was lifted high into the sky with the welcome return of the aviator jacket. Burberry led the way with different fabrics and shapes but focussing on the oversized shearling collar with Juicy Couture and Reiss happy to follow. The intrinsic warmth of lambswool has lovingly been embraced by a number of different cuts, styles and designers, such as Roberto Cavalli, Vera Wang and Vivienne Westwood, with Mongolian lamb a favourite but also more pastoral hides like Tibetan, Kalgan or Toscana lamb being used.

Classic cut coats by designers such as Alberta Ferretti and Valentino put the shearling effect to good use, especially when paired with fur collar trims and shape enhancing lines. On the high street this trend has taken off too, thanks to Windsmoor, Planet, Wallis and French Connection.

The military look doesn't stop at the aviator jacket: trench coats and pea coats are back too, and now in a range of furs and styles. Younger generations are well catered for by the likes of Andrew Gn and Miss Selfridge, who have run with the military look and added fur collars and linings, and Prada have added their contribution too. The duffle coat has been given a fur makeover too with linings and hoods, especially seen in collections from Ralph Lauren, Debenhams, Whistles and Dorothy Perkins.

Fendi have long been known for their use for fur, and this season they have created sow fabulous animal print full length coats. Phillip Lim and Betty JAckson have jumped on board too, with creations that have made their way onto the high street in faux fur in stores such as Oasis, Biba, Warehouse and online giant ASOS. Coatdresses, vests and giblets have been seen completing many outfits this season, mainly in sable, lambswool, mink and fox. Anna Sui, Rick Owens, Antonio Berardi, Bluegirl and Valentino showed such creations on the catwalks, with commercial faux versions seen in brands such as CC and Lipsy, River Island, Club L and Vero Moda.

Mink, broadtail and beaver took back their rightful ownership of capelets, stoles and boleros as showcased by Carolina Herrera, Andy & Debb and Christian Dior but unsurprisingly fox seems to be the most popular choice for coats and jackets. Even though vintage chinchilla is in demand, the use of fox means no longer is the wearer feeling the coat as a heavy burden, as fox is a more lightweight pelt that gives the appearance of volume in its fur. The oversized, puffed high collars and big shoulders can be seen on the capes and coats available and cut the season's silhouette for fur fashion.




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